Chocolate/Aqua Corset - remote fitting of the toile
My client has very graciously allowed that I blog the photographs from the remote fitting. Those of you who remember seeing the toile on one of my wonky handmade dressforms will realise that we’ve got some super-awesome curves going on here!
The main issue that the toile has shown us is coverage. Getting the bust-line correct when you haven’t even seen the client’s physique can be (as many of you know) pretty tricky! So whilst these images have been doctored to be completely safe-for-work, there is a lot of bust going on and you have been warned!
| The main changes here are coverage at the bust (by extending and curving the topline back), a longer busk coupled with longer adjacent bones (so that the grommets start higher for the front tie and are better supported), and a touch extra room at the ribs. |  |
| This is the side we are going to develop upon. The exterior casings will be as shown, but there will also be many extra interior casings for support (especially at the side-bust). My client has chosen that the extra casings be internal rather than external so that the “bronzed aqua” dupioni silk may be the star of the show! She is also still deciding wether she would like the front casings to overlap at the bottom of CF or not. |  |
| We will not be using the cording design for this corset. You can also see here that the underarm area needs to be a touch higher for modesty, and that the very bottom of CF could do with nipping in to sit more closely against the tummy. |  |
| You can see here that the corset is laced too tightly at top whilst the waist has a touch extra room than is planned. This evened out later with help of a trusted friend when re-lacing! It will also, however, be improved once the final corset is fully boned and more supportive at the bust. I’ve noticed through fitting a variety of figures that most ladies (whether super-small or delightfully buxom) will be inclined to lace the top tightly if they do not feel supported at the front. My client has also opted for flat steels (on the right of image) at side-back rather than spirals (on the left of image) as she found it more comfortable. She was slightly concerned that the flats at CB were pushing against her back too firmly, so I have suggested swapping 7.5mm flats for 5.5mm flats, as these tend to be softer and have more flex. Whenever I’ve used 7.5mm flats I’ve found that they do seem to take longer to mould to the body’s shape. |  |
There are also other little tweaks to make. For example, I intend to shift the distribution on the front-half pattern pieces slightly towards CF to counter the little bit of stress showing in the fabric there, and I also intend to move the seam-lines over the bust slightly outwards to give a more harmonious line. But all-in-all I am very excited for how this piece is going to turn out. So, up next, alterations to the pattern! The silk is on order and should be with us promptly, and I am really looking forward to getting started on the final corset.
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