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Chocolate/Aqua Toile - evenly laced fitting

by Jenni on Friday, September 18, 2009 .

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Front
Left: Image doctored for modesty as the bust was not giving my lady enough space. Right: laced as intended, the bust settles into the toile better and shows us the changes to be made. The busk and bones (as mentioned previously) need extending for support. This will allow the bust seam to flow more fluidly in a gentle ‘V’ towards the base of the busk as the front lacing will be less tight. Once that is sitting more smoothly, it will be necessary to nip in the side-bust seams for support/cleavage. Therefore, the curve at top of pattern piece 4 will need to be smoothed out (and possibly even made slightly concave). The lower section of the front needs nipping in to close the busk to her tummy. (I’m in the middle of making the alterations now, and will post later showing the pattern.)
Left-hand side
You can see clearly here that the bust could do with a little extra curve beneath the apex, and then extending for coverage above this to create a smooth almost semi-circular profile. Importantly, if I extended the bust without giving more room beneath the apex, it would simply emphasize the “shelf” shaping rather than curve nicely over her bust in a natural way.
Right-hand side
Again, these just show us that the underarm needs to be a touch higher.
Back
You can see clearly here the difference proper lacing makes. You can also see more clearly the difference between spirals and flats on the side-back seam. For a while, I considered drafting a touch extra into the side back seam on the left-hand side as it seems to nip her there, but on reflection I think this is simply a result of the spiral not supporting the toile well on that side and will be fixed with proper boning.




We’re discussing a last comfort issue with the back of the corset, and then I’ll complete the amendments to the draft!

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